Railway Day Trips: 160 classic train journeys around Britain
Julian Holland
Fully updated essential guide to exploring Britain by train, Railway Day Trips is ideal for anyone planning or looking for inspiration for a rail journey. From bestselling railway author Julian Holland.This pocket companion is perfect for both casual and seasoned rail travellers. Plan adventures, follow the changing landscape through the train window and discover fascinating destinations.Each journey incorporates a location map and descriptive text on its history and geography, plus some of the highlights awaiting you at each destination. High-quality photographs illustrate every route throughout the book.Based on his extensive knowledge of British rail travel, the author reveals appealing quirks of the various routes and provides practical tips on how to make the most of your journey.160 day trips from all over the country are featured, departing from major towns and cities and culminating at a variety of interesting destinations.This 2nd edition includes 10 new routes:• Cambridge to Ipswich• Hereford to Newport• Cardiff to Ebbw Vale• Carmarthen to Fishguard• Manchester to Southport• Sheffield to Lincoln• Middlesbrough to Newcastle• Glasgow to Perth• Edinburgh to Tweedbank• Inverness to Wick
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Second Edition 2017
Copyright © HarperCollins Publishers Ltd 2017
Text © Julian Holland 2017
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Ebook Edition: March 2017
ISBN: 9780008241926
Version: 2017-03-14
Contents
Cover Page (#ud394aac5-f808-57a9-a923-d971b2310e53)
Title Page (#ud4221b50-0547-5dd6-ade0-6d94cb37a944)
Copyright (#u50aa8c4e-35c5-5c9a-a95a-2417598bf6c4)
Introduction (#u90f9ebe5-0977-50b8-a746-b21a80559c02)
WEST COUNTRY (#u6ac1a128-17c5-53f3-a24f-f6bed058cf07)
Penzance to St Ives (#u868bc06a-99e5-53b0-bf7b-46677dddc0de)
Truro to Falmouth (#uc575e521-ebb2-558e-b369-c6fa8dd06ecf)
St Austell to Newquay (#u8baca93c-6c8d-5926-8e65-d911cdac5b4c)
Plymouth to Looe (#ud4bed3b8-844e-5625-9e6b-c497da977019)
Plymouth to Penzance (#u0e17c7af-9159-56dd-9481-836191ade3b3)
Plymouth to Exeter (#ueb26eb96-75a4-5a1e-80c5-22aea9fe4682)
Plymouth to Gunnislake (#u0306c138-c9cd-5a0a-861b-4c2264d40e0c)
Totnes to Buckfastleigh (#ud91fd5d6-430d-5290-ba96-7467056bf4db)
Exeter to Kingswear (#u08b9d3ed-fad9-571c-81e0-b19c86612c1e)
Exeter to Barnstaple (#u29f7cb96-3c50-51ba-b37f-1c2501d04ca0)
Exeter to Okehampton (#u2f85bf12-a520-59a2-827e-e5724014d723)
Exeter to Exmouth (#uad289dc4-7673-585e-8d1c-c15428d5dfdd)
Exeter to Salisbury (#u443199e0-645b-5e3d-90c2-d42762a1f229)
Taunton to Minehead (#u60620ac9-ca7a-5205-8f51-714e9c87342a)
Taunton to Exeter (#udf6abebd-9abe-521d-8bb1-d36973d09a0b)
Taunton to Bristol (#u0625b8c1-5432-5bba-abc9-e7cf14b9b998)
Bristol to Severn Beach (#u20d36ba1-1e71-5526-bff5-8276a1d2c0c5)
Salisbury to Bath (#u7d7dc138-461e-5e6b-a480-22e8230f9d4e)
Yeovil to Weymouth (#u11842e08-2f8f-5ed5-82e9-acad49e5f1aa)
SOUTH & SOUTHEAST ENGLAND (#u1956b68b-085f-5070-a8d9-aff37d3ee2c0)
Southampton to Weymouth (#u555195cb-7ad9-55d2-a600-a2867580ddd2)
Basingstoke to Portsmouth (#u05a84ff4-206a-5176-b36b-9da267e2f26a)
Basingstoke to Salisbury (#u54bb9c61-06fd-58a7-b2b9-87d53792b77d)
Reading to Guildford (#u10d7a841-ccb4-53e0-b912-c3f553000435)
Guildford to Hayling Island (#u38d008d4-1baf-5f86-a22c-1e8bac734ae5)
Portsmouth to Havenstreet (#uc8963284-53c1-5de9-8fbb-9873f9581f9f)
Brighton to Chichester (#u9f0c52a7-7f91-5c42-826c-4b9f3440870d)
Brighton to Hastings (#ufeeb4d1b-667d-5059-8908-f4cce8c1177c)
Tunbridge Wells to Hastings (#u77af2596-1049-5336-9ab8-436451e35fce)
Tunbridge Wells to Hever (#uee990881-510c-53c0-9473-10229feb7cff)
Hythe to Dungeness (#ub2513b18-1fd1-5433-a5a6-05f782065d33)
Tenterden to Bodiam (#u4c8bb777-6822-58be-93ae-d0a3573c3c42)
Hastings to Ramsgate (#uf7dcaf98-9e8d-590c-ab9a-4c2fb3d9516d)
Folkestone to Margate (#uf39a6f48-4b49-5f69-b5f8-eece4e6afc82)
DAY TRIPS FROM LONDON (#u7c89f7fc-2ab7-5313-adfe-258fc0898c2c)
Victoria to Sheffield Park (#ue15ec44c-ff0c-51a4-bb76-04077c7208a6)
Victoria to Brighton (#u2a2bf119-45c5-58aa-8e63-f1e2c75f9223)
Victoria to Bognor Regis (#u28967b00-ad61-57c9-8416-e2fc8724ef6a)
Victoria to Canterbury (#u64165d2f-b37a-53ee-b173-62701b1cc68c)
Waterloo to Alresford (#ueb23996c-44ea-5227-8f86-09d0e9c6e730)
Waterloo to Hampton Court (#u8bf4d46a-1236-527a-9f91-6ff5c21a7bb1)
Marylebone to Stratford-upon-Avon (#uc2b75dbf-ce84-5a22-a1d9-ec3c23e16b1f)
Marylebone to Aylesbury (#udff07e29-0bf9-5572-a53a-a15f7a0452c7)
Euston to St Albans (#u685ad26c-a515-5452-b650-2f7d47177a61)
Liverpool Street to Cambridge (#u62f3ba3c-d9ef-5f43-8868-5b4759d32c65)
Liverpool Street to Norwich (#u605f890f-cd2b-58f2-ae2d-02b1dc75e874)
Liverpool Street to Chappel & Wakes Colne (#uae19bf1d-e23c-5228-984f-6218d58819a1)
Fenchurch Street to Southend-on-Sea (#u63320ff1-fd3f-51bf-ad15-d40addecf368)
King’s Cross to Peterborough (#u87f5f9b3-baa1-5903-9f20-16874dd58bd6)
St Pancras International to Ramsgate (#ua6707e90-5682-5171-ad81-9c1c6b7d25c9)
St Pancras International to Nottingham (#u45cde306-7122-5614-bc99-e14dbcdb03b5)
Paddington to Oxford (#u273ab867-f804-5b11-ab3c-6b18dd44a463)
Paddington to Bath (#ud74c7438-883b-59a4-b6a1-466ee4b6ba7c)
EASTERN ENGLAND (#u8eeac6b2-8cea-5b1e-bf6c-b8969b704a88)
Ipswich to Walton-on-the-Naze (#u5701052c-a944-59df-aa1e-656b3b367465)
Ipswich to Felixstowe (#uc481a552-d518-5685-a46c-5c92dc055305)
Ipswich to Lowestoft (#u0483b795-a7a2-599f-ae50-9679b2c926f9)
Ipswich to Sudbury (#u0076b98a-c084-5acd-aaed-1f183a96cdaf)
Norwich to Great Yarmouth (#ua0319d83-edb5-5a1c-805e-02636b89c1c2)
Norwich to Sheringham (#ud4ed37c9-75d5-5a6c-bcd7-cb990ff5df7d)
Norwich to Dereham (#u60aa5720-d828-557f-a43e-baef7b69df2e)
Norwich to Ely (#u94bfb9b9-fa50-5b44-b08e-48894e5d9a6b)
Peterborough to Leicester (#u5127c63d-29d3-58a5-98d9-4b86c696a56f)
Cambridge to King’s Lynn (#u1dceb46b-0143-508f-9499-0eacbeef5d25)
Cambridge to Ipswich (#u01b53369-90d2-5632-a2c3-77ce9f8e0dff)
Lincoln to Skegness (#ua1b9ddbf-629b-5cce-b78a-791a10d2d3ca)
Lincoln to Cleethorpes (#u7a41d720-4ecd-5840-9f53-d2a25dd66fca)
CENTRAL ENGLAND (#ucc1e0888-1d81-50e8-b009-0587ee93073d)
Swindon to Cheltenham (#u73d726b7-fd78-5ba7-8cb0-d7744f38cba5)
Cheltenham to Toddington (#ueacda302-9323-5098-9aaf-5f0a81b313bc)
Gloucester to Worcester (#ue3abc3be-1495-5dff-94c3-2d8b1df2fecd)
Gloucester to Parkend (#u64651c98-94bd-5057-ae09-85a97835687b)
Worcester to Hereford (#u298219d7-3d24-533d-9ae6-4580f2b48069)
Oxford to Worcester (#u03d4197b-ff17-5cd8-96f0-b6d09d1ad8cf)
Shrewsbury to Hereford (#u954f60fd-d58b-5efb-a424-c5c777752569)
Hereford to Newport (#u0ec3c6e3-9c64-52ad-a801-b463d4227a70)
Birmingham to Bridgnorth (#ucad86cb5-839c-5222-89f9-5de01ed0bacd)
Birmingham to Stratford-upon-Avon (#u389d7517-059b-50da-8620-7ed20bb3a6cb)
Birmingham to Gloucester (#u47a1740f-d2a0-5a6d-a867-56316307d3ce)
Birmingham to Liverpool (#uafd7b923-3b98-5272-a377-e46cfe635bb1)
Birmingham to Leicester (#u3dde6e01-41cb-5e85-ac36-ea30819b3525)
Birmingham to Lichfield (#u309a69da-8dd8-59ae-9a43-325069d55792)
Birmingham to Shrewsbury (#ub54006b8-46f0-5a21-ab64-320dcc09fd2f)
Oxford to Coventry (#ue1eec60f-eba4-5d7d-82e8-6f5e224dbce4)
Bedford to Milton Keynes (#uc52ef3e9-33b5-576f-b6a6-0e55e22b0ce6)
Nottingham to Rowsley (#u66053753-8300-5ce0-8cbd-f29eca27d267)
Crewe to Shrewsbury (#ud04dc75d-facc-5bb6-8ef0-ee2d5364976d)
Stoke-on-Trent to Chester (#ua2952eff-0ca0-5d81-82bb-edc3b2f49f11)
Stoke-on-Trent to Derby (#u4849ef5d-ca6c-506b-a64c-c2dc25b8ad39)
Derby to Ravenstor (#u5656a5f5-08f3-5558-bca0-1c2c17a6428c)
Worksop to Nottingham (#u08be81b4-1d92-544e-a772-00f3e502d7ad)
Nottingham to Lincoln (#uc0954744-000a-5f68-9669-81d0c4706e8a)
WALES (#u9b794e71-6d2f-5747-a3d6-00fc4523eb06)
Swansea to Tenby (#ufe37e35c-0cb3-5e8e-9a47-553018af7eb1)
Swansea to Llandrindod (#u3fe6b12d-1911-5b26-be80-be52a8d4014d)
Swansea to Cardiff (#u45362f22-1b4e-5a3c-8a03-05ce8b62dbfe)
Cardiff to Bristol (#uc25fbce9-118a-547d-b886-15679272bf5e)
Cardiff to Maesteg (#uf971ab90-ceed-530f-93c3-e0c6c94bb926)
Cardiff to Ebbw Vale (#u592c0531-6046-5976-862b-7c5a08d82892)
Carmarthen to Fishguard (#uead310e3-e907-5b99-ac99-c975023c28bb)
Merthyr Tydfil to Barry Island (#u0187f5eb-c68b-5808-af02-92f1402a445e)
Shrewsbury to Llandrindod (#u097a60a5-fb58-5e8e-8109-d062354183a0)
Shrewsbury to Llanfair Caereinion (#u146028e8-e533-56fa-9517-f6a479963632)
Welshpool to Machynlleth (#u8043386f-0f02-5e83-a05b-22c2fe4da517)
Machynlleth to Devil’s Bridge (#u639faeef-6cd6-53db-9290-eae0e47f65d2)
Porthmadog to Nant Gwernol (#ua1fe54fa-cd1d-5134-936b-0bc5b8c6b22e)
Porthmadog to Blaenau Ffestiniog (#uc3baefd9-7d8e-5f94-a156-49dc941e4a66)
Porthmadog to Caernarfon (#uf448994d-c92b-570f-b77c-82796bc89054)
Llandudno to Blaenau Ffestiniog (#u2f8ad2d8-4808-5599-b2f9-192fd87bf136)
Llandudno to Holyhead (#u07bcc9db-e124-55d5-8e53-249f729d8177)
Chester to Llandudno (#u1edc52b9-b0e2-57ba-8364-0d88812914af)
Wrexham to Liverpool (#ucc74d304-0d2f-5458-87e5-f4b625abc190)
NORTHERN ENGLAND (#uef947501-9a14-5fa7-9ca3-7ab888008030)
Manchester to Buxton (#u494574bd-1245-5cdf-b368-0e6e9db975a8)
Manchester to Bradford (#u9a874cfa-76c8-5208-aeba-3ddbd10035df)
Manchester to Leeds (#u23be5864-3709-504f-b6d5-b0c5f288666d)
Manchester to Rawtenstall (#u18c9b485-eac3-54c7-a551-d8b644c93b0d)
Manchester to Clitheroe (#ud7e48aad-9aa0-52da-8565-bafbbf055b7a)
Manchester to Southport (#uac9cfba2-783d-56e6-b1a4-8701ce1d3d6b)
Huddersfield to Sheffield (#u0d99e937-8276-56ef-97fc-22e1ed756574)
Sheffield to Manchester (#u423a1a65-e146-5c53-aca5-170f1cc0dec8)
Liverpool to Southport (#u2a1ab4a1-78ba-556a-9cba-85cdc4598b96)
Liverpool to Blackpool (#u74abd78b-17d2-5f2c-9c24-c854ae98f03f)
Leeds to Oxenhope (#u35bbd3f1-5277-5f7d-9b6c-08db1b833cb2)
Leeds to Ilkley (#ua46a4918-4dc5-5193-96b5-918974d7f52f)
Sheffield to Lincoln (#u042e7cba-9079-5b21-87f5-899f31cbc947)
Doncaster to Barton-on-Humber (#ucc0ccd69-de52-5b4e-bb8b-e84fa0f4b591)
Leeds to York (#u0b78a7d5-42d3-5ba4-be24-7aaeb777a724)
Skipton to Morecambe (#u40c37292-7dee-5d49-b692-016f70ae54b0)
Skipton to Carlisle (#u1b2cb6b6-6919-551e-9cbe-a501fd5b9cb9)
Hull to Scarborough (#u378186c3-a1c3-5240-a50f-eee290b84347)
York to Scarborough (#u655033d5-1e72-5092-9d14-45d02114fb4b)
Middlesbrough to Whitby (#u18b01866-579c-5344-8017-d6129f094326)
Whitby to Pickering (#u1c3b900a-3181-5989-a009-673b703fd08c)
Bishop Auckland to Saltburn-by-the-Sea (#u64d24ef1-7a1c-5305-ae8c-252ddad7041c)
Middlesbrough to Newcastle (#u4b5faf4f-4731-59a5-893a-e058c6c00ed7)
Preston to Colne (#ue854557f-4568-53c7-907b-164309801471)
Lancaster to Windermere (#u58042060-706c-541a-b536-a11b4dc8937c)
Lancaster to Barrow-in-Furness (#u007b38d4-e614-5039-b324-3a797e0bd1e5)
Barrow-in-Furness to Dalegarth (#u66b66347-540b-5212-991e-341e6595e1e2)
Carlisle to Dalegarth (#ue3e814f5-e9ec-5aa3-8cc8-d599987097a7)
Carlisle to Newcastle (#u361c5038-0fde-5519-969c-1521dde0c24c)
Newcastle to York (#u3ae54b22-5290-56cb-8155-730c50aefe22)
Newcastle to Whitley Bay (#uaed7b61e-c0ba-5ac2-8082-e11fbac49e1a)
Newcastle to Berwick-upon-Tweed (#u2c2f7d0e-349c-56eb-938a-086ea7fdaafe)
SCOTLAND (#uf385b8c2-15c8-50fc-bbbb-d13414738d00)
Ayr to Stranraer (#u091d14a0-f008-5b5b-8d79-07abdc99f867)
Glasgow to Rothesay (#ubcca9c55-63fd-533f-9a96-73ca6346d702)
Glasgow to Millport (#u219bd437-e071-5ecd-b1fa-a78e9ce24971)
Glasgow to Balloch (#uc452228d-3439-565a-adb6-476f5e3e0002)
Glasgow to North Berwick (#u3bf871db-6826-5186-bb69-6c31dc23cae6)
Glasgow to Edinburgh (#ub065e5fd-51b7-5733-b2f7-5008ac629233)
Glasgow to Carlisle (#u6a8d4291-c000-534a-a3f0-0e13f1d76092)
Glasgow to Dumfries (#u456d0180-ed8b-59f5-8e22-93534397bb5f)
Glasgow to Perth (#u70a81c4d-265b-5cef-8daf-c9986442b6e8)
Glasgow to Oban (#u345b641c-7d5c-5fb8-9b95-ae51993648c5)
Glasgow to Corrour (#u59f62d62-b9dc-5513-b6a3-c3c02dca016f)
Fort William to Mallaig (#u1fadee02-6bf4-5250-a764-2bba1f94583f)
Perth to Broomhill (#u442a964e-04c6-5ff6-a975-b768fb1b7f5e)
Edinburgh to Tweedbank (#u92f628b9-397b-5136-b074-b4feefb01d7e)
Edinburgh to Berwick-upon-Tweed (#u40cb5c78-4a7d-507e-9b4d-f7cba37113fd)
Edinburgh to Dundee (#ucc95db33-bbe5-5471-9731-433d76a81f1a)
Dundee to Aberdeen (#u2157a6cb-d766-5d99-8ee4-968d9d1ae40d)
Aberdeen to Dufftown (#ua69cd788-b1e6-5ac7-bc4e-bdfc27410ec1)
Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh (#uebd1bbf7-11c5-593d-ae11-55b71431ef0a)
Inverness to Dunrobin Castle (#ud87e914c-9f17-551c-a1cc-0adb68509315)
Inverness to Wick (#u9ee4c647-fd5a-5e61-9b98-6a575a488323)
Acknowledgements (#u9980a6bf-0133-503b-9983-6be9246dfe30)
The scenic railway line between Folkestone and Dover burrows through Shakespeare Cliff in a twin-bore tunnel.
INTRODUCTION
For as long as I can remember, I’ve enjoyed taking railway day trips. As a young child I went nearly everywhere by train and the smells, sounds and sights are still vivid in my mind. The musty, stale-smoke smell of carriage compartments coupled with the rhythmic clickety-clack of the wheels on the rail joints, the whistling of the steam locomotive as we rushed through sleepy country stations and the stifling roar as we burrowed through dank and dripping tunnels will be with me forever. As I grew older, my interest in railways led me into the wonderful world of trainspotting and consequently my forays took me to some pretty amazing places all around Britain – my knowledge of the geography of our country has stood me in good stead ever since.
However, as we can’t turn the clock back, it is heartening to know, despite the best efforts of certain politicians and dear old Dr Beeching, that railway travel is not a thing of the past. In recent years our railways have enjoyed a renaissance that would have seemed like a pipe dream back in the 1960s – closed railways and stations are being reopened and a vast amount of taxpayers’ money is being invested in a transport system that was nearly killed off by the powerful road transport lobby 50 years ago. Passenger numbers are at their highest since the 1920s and, suddenly, Britain’s love affair with the car and lorry seems to be on the wane – increasing road congestion and huge hikes in fuel prices have put paid to that. As the Father of Railways, George Stephenson, prophesied in 1825:
I think you will live to see the day, though I may not live so long, when railways will come to supersede almost all other methods of conveyance in this country … what I have said will come to pass as sure as we live.
Despite a few hiccups along the way, it looks as if he may have been right.
A steam train on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway between Goathland and Pickering.
This book is not just aimed at die-hard railway enthusiasts – there are already enough books on the subject to sink the Titanic – but at a much wider audience who are now discovering the joy of leaving the car at home, sitting back, relaxing and watching Britain’s ever-changing landscape unfold instead of hurtling to oblivion, stressed out along our multi-lane highways. While, in my mind anyway, a railway journey is in itself a voyage of discovery, the destination at the end is often the icing on the cake. For such a small country, Britain probably has more to offer the traveller or visitor, whether from home or abroad, than any other place on Earth – admittedly the weather can sometimes be inclement but that one factor surely gives the British so much of their resilient character.
The list of fascinating destinations that can be reached on a day trip by train in Britain is practically endless. In this book I have put together 160 of these trips, chosen with one eye on the journey itself and the other on the cities, towns or villages that are visited. From major historical sites, architectural gems, museums, gardens, historic pubs, boat trips and country walks to film and TV locations, seaside resorts, rides on heritage railways, festivals and markets there is something for everyone. A few of the trips also involve using a bus, ferry, catamaran or Shanks’s Pony to complete the journey, but it is well worth the effort. It doesn’t take a major leap in imagination to string some of these day trips together to make a long weekend break or even a week’s railway holiday – the permutations are simply endless.
The spacious modern passenger departure concourse at King’s Cross station was opened in 2012.
Now to more practical matters. Do your homework and always plan your journey in advance, and if you are of a certain age take advantage of the Senior Railcard (over 60s) or, if in Scotland, ScotRail’s Club 55, both of which offer amazing savings on rail fares. While many of the routes featured in this book are served by a frequent service of trains, some, in more rural or remote areas, see only a few trains each day. Trips along scenic routes such as the Esk Valley to Whitby in North Yorkshire, the Heart of Wales Line in Central Wales and in the more remote parts of Scotland need to be planned well so that the last train home is not missed. Although there are several online timetables with a ticket and seat booking service such as National Rail and the Train Line, these are computer generated and can often produce some mind-boggling results culminating in much lengthier journeys from A to B via X, Y and Z. A printed version of the National Rail Timetable is only available by mail order from Middleton Press. Alternatively the National Rail Timetable is available online, free of charge and in easy to download sections. Sadly, on-train catering is not what it used to be. Apart from a handful of long-distance train journeys where silver service is still offered, passengers now have to put up with a budget airline-style trolley which is trundled up and down the train offering not very much for rather a lot of money – my advice is simple, take your own picnic with you.
In conclusion, when you are next planning on a day out, please remember to leave your car at home or at the station car park, catch a train and go out there to discover this wonderful country of ours.
Julian Holland
This second edition has been fully updated with revised journey details and the inclusion of ten brand-new Railway Day Trips for your discovery and enjoyment.
Each route featured in the book is illustrated by a location map:
The following information is also given:
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTSideas of things to see and do at the journey’s end
FREQUENCY OF TRAINSindicates how often services run – but please check with the operator before travel
DISTANCE
JOURNEY TIMEone-way; includes time for connections, unless journey legs are shown separately, e.g. 5+10 mins
NUMBER OF CHANGESnoting interchange stations, where applicable
Vintage luggage cases at the restored Sheringham station on the North Norfolk Railway.
WEST COUNTRY
Passengers travelling by train on the St Ives branch line are treated to fine views of Carbis Bay.
PENZANCE TO ST IVES
This is a great trip to explore one of Cornwall’s (and Britain’s) premier seaside resorts and avoid traffic queues in the busy summer months. Penzance’s overall roofed station, 305 miles from Paddington, is the end of the line in the West Country. It was first reached by Brunel’s West Cornwall Railway in 1852 but was not linked to the rest of Britain’s rail network until 1859, with the opening of the Cornwall Railway between Truro and Plymouth. The short railway journey from Penzance to St Erth gives fine views of Mount’s Bay and St Michael’s Mount before turning inland at Marazion to cross this narrow point of the Cornish Peninsula. Passengers for St Ives must change trains at St Erth.
From St Erth, the 4¼-mile single-track branch line to St Ives hugs the west bank of the Hayle Estuary, passing through Lelant Saltings station where a park-and-ride scheme operates. Lelant station follows shortly after, where passengers are treated to stunning vistas across St Ives Bay to Hayle Sands. Opened in 1877, this branch line once carried thousands of holidaymakers from far-flung corners of Britain and even had its own through coach from Paddington on the GWR’s ‘Cornish Riviera Express’. Although listed for closure in the ‘Beeching Report’ of 1963, this scenic railway was reprieved and in recent years has seen buoyant growth in passenger numbers.
Following the coastline above Carbis Bay, the railway skirts Porthminster Beach before ending at the minimal, modern station of St Ives. From here it is but a short walk to the beaches, harbour, quaint streets and world-famous art galleries including the Leach Pottery, Tate St Ives and Barbara Hepworth Museum.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
14th-century Sloop Inn; harbour; beaches; shark fishing; Leach Pottery; Tate St Ives; Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden; St Ives Museum; St Ives September Festival; South West Coast Path
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
1-2 per hour
10 MILES
40 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 1
(St Erth)
Sandwiched between a golf course and sand dunes, a train for St Ives heads away from Lelant station.
TRURO TO FALMOUTH
Marketed today as the Maritime Line, this single-track branch was opened as a broad-gauge line by the Cornwall Railway in 1863. Engineered by Brunel, it was originally built to serve the international shippers that operated out of Falmouth but by the time the railway arrived the business had gone elsewhere. The branch was converted to standard gauge by the GWR in 1892. Our journey starts at Truro station which is well-served by trains on the Cornish main line between Plymouth and Penzance, with Falmouth trains plunging through Higher Town Tunnel before branching off at Penwithers Junction and heading off in a southwesterly direction. En route it passes through Sparnick Tunnel before crossing Restronguet Creek on the imposing 11-arch Carnon Viaduct. This is one of eight viaducts on the line, all originally built of timber on stone piers but later replaced by new stone structures. Carnon was rebuilt in 1933 and stands at nearly 100 ft high.
Perranwell station is soon reached before the railway dives into Perran Tunnel and crosses the 5-arch Perran Viaduct followed by the 9-arch Ponsanooth Viaduct – at 139 ft high this is the tallest on the line – then 6-arch Pascoe Viaduct and 5-arch Penryn Viaduct. From here there are panoramic views across the historic town of Penryn, which is set at the head of the Penryn Estuary and was once a thriving port with trade in fish, copper and tin. A recently installed passing loop at Penryn station has allowed a more frequent service of trains on the branch which in turn has led to a massive increase in passenger numbers.
Leaving Penryn, the railway crosses the imposing 14-arch Collegewood Viaduct before pausing at the renovated Penmere station. Next stop is Falmouth Town station, which is convenient for visitors to the National Maritime Museum. Our journey ends at Falmouth Docks station, set on a hillside overlooking the docks, Pendennis Castle and Gyllyngvase Beach.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
harbour; 3 beaches; Pendennis Castle; National Maritime Museum Cornwall; Falmouth Art Gallery; South West Coast Path; passenger ferry to St Mawes (for walks on Roseland Peninsula)
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
2 per hour (Mon-Sat)
1 per hour (Sun)
11¾ MILES
24 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 0
A sunny day on Swanpool Beach, close to the Swanpool Lake Nature Reserve in Falmouth.
ST AUSTELL TO NEWQUAY
The first 4½ miles of this railway trip to the surfing capital of Britain follow the Cornish main line from the town of St Austell to the china clay harbour town of Par. Soon after leaving St Austell the railway heads towards Carlyon Bay, where there are views across St Austell Bay to Gribbin Head. Passengers change trains at Par station before resuming their journey on what is now marketed as the ‘Atlantic Coast Line’ to Newquay.
Trains for Newquay take a 180-degree turn from Par station before joining the route of the former Cornwall Minerals Railway near St Blazey. The railway was opened in 1874 and followed the route of earlier horse-drawn tramways built alongside the Par Canal to carry china clay down to Par Harbour for onward shipment. Modern china clay trains still use this route from Goonbarrow Junction.
North of St Blazey, the railway threads through the heavily wooded Luxulyan Valley, now designated a World Heritage Site for its early 19th-century industrial remains, before passing under Treffry Viaduct. Built in 1844 this historic structure carried an aqueduct and a horsedrawn tramway serving local mines. West of tiny Luxulyan station – now a request stop, as are all the other intermediate stations on the line –Goonbarrow Junction is the limit of the china clay service and also the site of the only passing loop (still controlled by semaphore signals) on this single-track branch line. After Bugle and Roche stations the railway crosses a nature reserve on Goss Moor before reaching St Columb Road station. The view to the south along this stretch is dominated by huge china clay workings, which have the surreal appearance of a lunar landscape. A freight-only branch from Burngullow (west of St Austell) to Parkandillack still serves the china clay industry. Quintrell Downs is the penultimate station, followed by our journey’s end at Newquay station. The current single-platform affair here is in marked contrast to the original 3-platform structure that was also served by trains from Chacewater and Perranporth until the line’s closure in 1963. The world-famous surfing beaches of Newquay are but a short walk from the station.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
harbour; Discovery Trail; 9 beaches; surfing from Fistral Beach; Trenance Gardens; South West Coast Path
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
6 per day (Mon-Sat)
5 per day (Sun, summer)
3 per day (Sun, winter)
25¼ MILES
1 HOUR 20 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 1
(Par)
Fistral Beach in Newquay is one of the premier surfing locations in Britain.
PLYMOUTH TO LOOE
For the first 17¾ miles of this scenic rail journey trains from Plymouth travel along the route of Brunel’s heavily engineered former broad-gauge Cornwall Railway, which opened in 1859 and still links Cornwall with the rest of Britain’s rail network via the magnificent Royal Albert Bridge over the River Tamar. After crossing the wrought-iron single-track bridge from which there are fine views of the Tamar Estuary and the distant Devonport Royal Naval Dockyard, the railway heads through Saltash and St Germans stations, crossing creeks and rivers on the first of many viaducts that span the narrow valleys along this route. Winding its way through low hills past Menheniot station, the railway then approaches the historic market town of Liskeard over the 720-ft-long Liskeard Viaduct from where the single-track branch line to Looe can be seen 150 ft below.
At Liskeard, trains for Looe depart from a separate platform set at a right angle to the main line before descending a steeply graded 180-degree loop, which was opened by the Great Western Railway in 1901, to remote Coombe Junction. Here the guard changes the points before the train reverses direction to head south down the picturesque wooded valley of the East Looe River along the route of the Liskeard & Looe Railway that opened alongside the Liskeard & Looe Union Canal in 1860 – both canal and railway were originally built to carry minerals from mines and quarries on Bodmin Moor down to Looe Harbour. Keeping company with the river and disused canal, the railway passes through request stops at St Keyne Wishing Well, Causeland and Sandplace before slowing for a riverside road crossing at Terras Crossing. The journey ends at the modern minimal station at Looe from where it is but a short walk to the harbour, fish market, beach and quaint narrow streets of East Looe.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
beach; harbour; fish market; quaint streets (East Looe); boat hire on West Looe River; boat trips to Looe Island; shark fishing; Old Guildhall Museum; South West Coast Path
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
1 per hour
26½ MILES
1 HOUR 10 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 1
(Liskeard)
The picturesque harbour at Looe is the jumping-off point for boat trips up the West Looe River and to St George’s Island.
PLYMOUTH TO PENZANCE
Diesel trains for the scenic, switchback line to Penzance follow the same route as the day trip to Looe (#ud4bed3b8-844e-5625-9e6b-c497da977019) as far as Liskeard. Trains leave Liskeard in a westerly direction to cross the valley of the East Looe River on the imposing Moorswater Viaduct (147 ft high and 954 ft long). To the north lie the former granite quarries on Bodmin Moor while to the south the single-track branch line wends its way down the valley to Looe. After climbing to Doublebois, trains begin their descent of the wooded Fowey Valley to call at Bodmin Parkway station, junction for the steam-operated Bodmin & Wenford Railway. The heavily engineered section from Doublebois to Bodmin Parkway features no less than 7 viaducts. Originally designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in the 1850s with timber spans supported on masonry piers, the timber spans were later replaced by masonry arches. From here, the line heads south, continuing down the valley to Lostwithiel, junction for the freight-only line to Carne Point, near Fowey.
From Lostwithiel, the railway climbs away from the valley to pass through Treverran Tunnel before descending to Par station, junction for the Newquay branch line (#u8baca93c-6c8d-5926-8e65-d911cdac5b4c). Leaving Par behind, the line heads along the Carlyon Bay coastline before climbing inland to St Austell, Cornwall’s largest town and centre of the china clay industry. Westwards from here, the railway follows a switchback route to Truro, crossing steep-sided river valleys on 8 viaducts and boring through the hills in two tunnels. West of Truro (junction for Falmouth), it climbs steadily up through the hills to Redruth before descending to call at Camborne, Hayle and St Erth (junction for St Ives). The line then cuts across the Cornish peninsula to follow the shore of Mount’s Bay past Long Rock depot to reach Penzance station.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
Art Deco Jubilee Bathing Pool; Morrab Gardens; Golowan Festival (June); Newlyn Art Gallery; Penlee House Art Gallery & Museum; St Michael’s Mount (by bus to Marazion)
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
1 per hour
79½ MILES
2 HOURS
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 0
Owned by the National Trust, St Michael’s Mount near Penzance can be reached via an ancient causeway at low tide.
PLYMOUTH TO EXETER
The rail journey from the maritime city of Plymouth to the cathedral city of Exeter is undoubtedly one of the most scenic in England. Trains leave Plymouth’s 1960s station along the route of the original South Devon Railway that opened to the city in 1848. The planned extension of the disastrous atmospheric railway from Totnes never materialized and Brunel’s eccentric but innovative system was replaced by a more conventional railway in the same year.
Today’s modern trains make light work of the steeply graded section around the southern edge of Dartmoor but in steam days most trains needed to be double-headed up the 1-in-42 Hemerdon Bank to Ivybridge station before reaching the summit of the line at Wrangaton. From here it is downhill all the way through Brent and Rattery Bank to the historic riverside town of Totnes. After a brief stop at Totnes, trains continue on their switchback route with the steep climb up to Dainton Tunnel and a similarly steep descent down to Newton Abbot. In steam days the town was an important railway centre with workshops and large engine sheds, while today the station is still the junction for the line to Paignton (#u08b9d3ed-fad9-571c-81e0-b19c86612c1e).
From Newton Abbot, the railway follows a fairly level route firstly alongside the Teign Estuary and then hugging the coastline, tunnelling through red sandstone cliffs between Teignmouth and Dawlish. This coastal route is often at the mercy of winter storms, which cause havoc with train services. The penultimate leg of this scenic route follows the west bank of the Exe Estuary from Dawlish Warren and through Starcross to end at Exeter’s busy St Davids station where trains to London can still be seen departing in opposite directions. Here a change of train is necessary to complete the short journey up to Exeter Central station from where the delights of this historic city can be explored on foot.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
12th-century cathedral; 11th-century Rougemont Castle; Danes Castle; St Nicholas Priory and Garden; Exeter Canal basin and riverside walks; 17th-century Butts Ferry; Royal Albert Memorial Museum; Spacex art gallery
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
2 per hour (Mon-Sat)
52 MILES 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 1
(Exeter St Davids)
The journey from Plymouth to Exeter takes in this wave-swept coastal stretch of railway at Dawlish.
PLYMOUTH TO GUNNISLAKE
Set astride the Devon/Cornwall border, this highly scenic single-track branch line serves a string of villages along the valley of the River Tamar – hence its marketing title of the Tamar Valley Line. From Plymouth station, trains call at Devonport, Dockyard, Keyham and St Budeaux Victoria Road before diving under the road and rail bridges that cross the Tamar, while closely following its eastern shore along what was once the London & South Western Railway’s main line to Exeter and Waterloo. This line opened in 1890 and, along with the branch line to Gunnislake and Callington, was listed for closure in the ‘Beeching Report’. Fortunately the section from Plymouth to Bere Alston and the branch as far as Gunnislake were reprieved because of poor road connections and there are currently plans to reopen the line from Bere Alston to Tavistock.
After following the east bank of the Tamar, the railway crosses its tributary, the River Tavy, on an attractive 8-span bowstring bridge to arrive at the isolated village of Bere Ferrers, where the privately owned station buildings and signal box have been lovingly restored to their former glory and are open to the public. From here, the railway continues north to Bere Alston station where the train reverses direction to take the winding route to Gunnislake.
Abounding in sharp curves and steep gradients, the railway soon crosses the Tamar high above on the spectacular concrete 12-arch Calstock Viaduct, which was completed in 1908. After crossing the viaduct, today’s trains call at tiny Calstock station before meandering high above the river to end at the minimal station of Gunnislake. For centuries the village was at the heart of an important industrial and mining region and was also the lowest crossing point of the Tamar until the opening of the Tamar Bridge near Plymouth in 1961. The mining and quarrying ended in the late 19th century and Gunnislake now lies in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
walks in Tamar Valley (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) from Gunnislake station; Rising Sun Inn (real ale pub in Gunnislake); Cotehele House and Gardens (Calstock); Bere Alston station museum
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
1 every 2 hours
15¼ MILES 45 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 0
A Plymouth to Gunnislake train slowly crosses the River Tamar on the impressive viaduct at Calstock.
TOTNES TO BUCKFASTLEIGH
The 9½-mile broad-gauge single-track branch line from Totnes to Ashburton was opened in 1872. It was converted to standard gauge in 1892 and became part of the Great Western Railway five years later. Serving small villages and farming communities on the edge of Dartmoor, the line led a fairly quiet life and was closed to passengers in 1958 and to goods in 1962. Lord Beeching reopened it as the South Devon Railway in 1969, but ‘improvements’ to the A38 trunk road led to the section between Buckfastleigh and Ashburton closing in 1971.
Steam-hauled trains now carry visitors on a delightful journey alongside the River Dart from the new terminus at Totnes (Littlehempston) – the station is accessible via a footbridge over the Dart from the national rail network station in the town. Leaving Totnes, the railway winds its way northwards up the meandering Dart Valley and past the parkland grounds of Dartington Hall to reach the only intermediate station and passing loop at Staverton. From here, the railway continues up the wooded valley, occasionally passing farms and isolated cottages before ending at the lovingly restored Buckfastleigh station. Here, a small but fascinating railway museum, miniature railway, café, butterfly farm and otter sanctuary are found while in the town (reached under the ugly concrete bridge of the A38 dual carriageway) there is Buckfast Abbey, famous (some say notorious) for its popular tonic wine.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
railway museum; miniature railway; Buckfast Abbey; otter sanctuary; butterfly farm; Sea Trout Inn (Staverton)
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
3-9 per day (mid-Feb, mid-Mar-early Nov, Christmas week and New Year)
7 MILES 30 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 0
Hauled by a restored GWR locomotive, a passenger train makes its way along the idyllic Dart Valley to Buckfastleigh.
EXETER TO KINGSWEAR
Our journey starts at Exeter St Davids station, from where Brunel opened his broad-gauge atmospheric South Devon Railway to Totnes in 1848. The intention was to reach Plymouth but the resounding failure of this eccentric system, which required no locomotives, soon saw it replaced by more conventional steam motive power. Heading south, the railway closely follows the west bank of the ever-widening Exe Estuary through Starcross (for the passenger ferry to Exmouth) and Dawlish Warren before tunnelling through the red sandstone cliffs on a dramatic coast-hugging route to Dawlish and Teignmouth. From here the railway heads inland along the shore of the Teign Estuary to Newton Abbot, once an important railway junction town. Leaving the town behind, the Paignton branch soon diverges from the main line to Plymouth, to head south through Torre and Torquay along the former broad-gauge route that opened between 1848 and 1859.
On arrival at the resort town of Paignton passengers must transfer the short distance to the terminus of the Dartmouth Steam Railway before continuing their journey to Kingswear. This 6½-mile single-track railway was originally opened in 1864 and survived threatened closure by Dr Beeching when it was seamlessly reopened as a heritage railway at the beginning of 1973. South of Paignton, the railway climbs along the coastline above Goodrington Sands to Churston station from where a short branch line to Brixham operated until closure in 1963. Descending from Churston, the railway emerges from Greenway Tunnel to closely follow the east bank of the tidal River Dart before ending at the picturesque overall-roofed terminus at Kingswear. A regular ferry service operates from here across the Dart to Dartmouth.
DESTINATION HIGHLIGHTS
ferry to Dartmouth; boat trips up River Dart to Totnes; Dartmouth Castle; medieval and Elizabethan streets and architecture (Dartmouth); Dartmouth Museum (Butterwalk); 14th-century Cherub Inn (Dartmouth)
FREQUENCY OF TRAINS
Exeter to Paignton: 2 per hourPaignton to Kingswear: 4-9 per day (Feb-Nov)
35 MILES 1 HOUR 45 MINUTES
NUMBER OF CHANGES: 1
(Paignton)
Trains on the Dartmouth Steam Railway end their journey from Paignton along the shore of the picturesque Dart Estuary at Kingswear.
Historic Kingswear is reached via a ferry from Dartmouth.
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