Главная страница | Домашние животные | The Practical Dog Listener: The 30-Day Path to a Lifelong Understanding of Your Dog

The Practical Dog Listener: The 30-Day Path to a Lifelong Understanding of Your Dog
Jan Fennell
In THE DOG LISTENER, Jan Fennell changed the way we think about our best friends. Now, in this indispensible companion volume, she deals with the day-to-day practicalities of putting those principles to work.In THE PRACTICAL DOG LISTENER, Jan Fennell distils her ideas into a simple 30-day guide that will enable everyone to use her remarkable method in a practical context. She covers every element of pet ownership – from introducing a dog to its new home and handling it in public, to dealing with behavioural problems. With detailed sections on everything from exercise to diet, there will also be problem-solving guides, dealing with worries such as biting or anxiety.Once again, Jan illustrates her points with entertaining and inspiring real-life cases from her own work with damaged and delinquent dogs. She even tells the saga of the Devil Dog – a tale to reassure even the most desperate owner that perseverance really does pay off!




The Practical Dog Listener
The 30-day path to a lifelong understanding of your dog

Jan Fennell




For Sasha, Barmie and Raffie
Also to Sadie, the star of this book 5/12/1995–28/10/2005

Table of Contents
Cover Page (#u86afd3cc-fece-5450-b9cd-ae4ec173eb3d)
Title Page (#u27343aac-847e-5f9c-8ae2-bd4f8765d3fa)
CAUTION (#u470ca918-afd1-5af8-962a-de9629607e9a)
INTRODUCTION (#u44e0dd5d-3f3a-587a-9086-a931673bff24)
PROLOGUE (#ue389f1d2-4211-5125-9e75-7dfefda3afc0)
PART ONE: Day-1 (#udbca0635-3399-50f3-a240-d5d7d10a5a4d)
PART TWO The First 48 Hours (#u1ac63eb4-be44-5c71-a541-3c59aa454b0a)
PART THREE: Days 3–7 (#litres_trial_promo)
PART FOUR: Days 8–14 (#litres_trial_promo)
PART FIVE: Days 15–21 (#litres_trial_promo)
PART SIX: Days 22–30 (#litres_trial_promo)
PART SEVEN: Day 31 Onwards… (#litres_trial_promo)
Epilogue (#litres_trial_promo)
Images (#litres_trial_promo)
Index (#litres_trial_promo)
Acknowledgements (#litres_trial_promo)
About the Author (#litres_trial_promo)
Copyright (#litres_trial_promo)
About the Publisher (#litres_trial_promo)

CAUTION (#ulink_1bae028f-cd56-504e-9f72-f26915c7afab)
It is important to state here that my method cannot remove the aggressive tendencies of any dog. Certain breeds have been raised specifically for the purpose of fighting, and my methods will never be able to alter their potentially savage nature. What my method can do is allow people to manage their dogs so that this aggressive instinct is never called upon. Please exercise the greatest of caution when working with such dogs.

INTRODUCTION (#ulink_2d097f82-701d-53c0-83d6-64f4b3b1f5c1)
The response to the publication of my first book, The Dog Listener, has been truly humbling. I seem to have struck a chord with so many people who share my belief that humans and dogs can enjoy a peaceful and rewarding coexistence. The thought that many of these people are now successfully implementing the compassionate training method I outlined, and so are learning to understand the dog’s own language, heartens me enormously.
The many words of support I have received since publication echo those I first heard on a much smaller scale when I began treating problematic dogs almost ten years ago. At the time, people raised on the idea of ‘obedience training’, of sublimating the dog’s will to that of its human ‘master’, were overwhelmed to discover that dogs could coexist with humans while still exercising their own free will. They were amazed to discover that, as I like to put it, the best form of control is using the dog’s self-control.
People’s responses to the practicalities of applying my method have conformed to an equally familiar pattern. And it was here that the seeds of the idea for this book were sown. From my earliest experiences in dealing with owners on a one-on-one basis, I quickly learned that no two dogs, no two homes and no two relationships between dog and owner are the same. On the one hand, this is one of the main reasons why my work remains such a source of fascination to me. However, this also makes it natural that my work divides itself into two distinct phases: the home visit itself and the post-visit, or backup, service.
During the crucial first consultation, it is my job to explain and demonstrate the principles that underpin my work. From there, I go on to offer owners basic instructions on how to implement my method. Many owners are able to replicate my method almost instantaneously, yet just as many require ongoing supervision. This is no criticism of any of them: while, at heart, my method is a simple one, the practicalities of implementing it are at times demanding. Some people don’t have the time or the resources to devote themselves as fully as others. Some have tried so many different methods, they cannot separate mine from the others. Equally, while I believe all dogs understand and react to my signals in the same way, every dog has a personality that can manifest itself in a different form of behaviour. Some dogs are simply more strong-willed and resistant than others. As a result, I make sure I am always at the end of a telephone line to guide owners through the difficult moments.
My first book was, in many ways, the equivalent of the home visit. Within its pages I outlined my ideas and explained how they evolved through long and hard experience. It was, if you like, my mission statement. Now I have produced this second book as the backup, the practical guide to putting that philosophy to work. The reaction to the first book has helped shape the content of this companion volume. Many of the people who have contacted me since reading The Dog Listener have asked me to develop specific ideas touched on in the first book. Most of them have wanted to apply them to the practical realities of their own situations. Many people, for instance, own more than one dog. Others find it hard to impose themselves on their dog, to present the signals consistently and to interpret their dog’s reaction correctly. Some find it difficult to incorporate my method into their hectic lives. Others have dogs that have displayed behaviour so bizarre, it simply hadn’t occurred to me it existed! I have no doubt there are dogs out there with traits that I still haven’t imagined. Nevertheless, I have done my best to cover as many of the unexplored areas as I can in this book.
My goal is to allow anyone to implement my method. So, to make it as accessible as possible, I have divided what follows into a guide through the key phases of the crucial first thirty days. I am adamant in my belief that the work of a responsible and caring owner begins even before a dog arrives within the home. With this in mind, I have included a section on the all-important preparations required too. From meeting and corresponding with people, I know how many readers enjoyed hearing of my adventures in treating problem dogs, so I have made sure I have included as many anecdotal examples as possible to illustrate my points. In response to readers’ comments, there are also step-by-step photographs.
There are goals that can be achieved at regular intervals throughout this method. For instance, it is my belief that most dogs and their owners can attain a basic new understanding of each other within two days. Within a week, I believe most owners should be ready to begin taking their dogs out on walks in public places. At the same time, I am not so foolish as to claim that my method will turn even the most difficult and badly behaved dog into the perfect companion within a month. Nor am I going to promise that every dog’s progress will conform to precisely the same pattern. If you find your dog is not doing something within four, fourteen – or even forty – days, you should not despair. Results will come with application and patience. Provided you persevere and apply my ideas consistently, even the most desperate owner should see huge improvements within this first month. Perhaps even more importantly, you should also have changed your perspective of your dog. Both of you should then be ready to join the growing band of owners and dogs that are enjoying a happier and more fulfilling life together.

Lincolnshire, England, October 2001

PROLOGUE (#ulink_e8e4cb32-6716-5bc4-896e-81ae8801d3ff)
Home Truths
In the decade since I first began developing my ideas about communicating with dogs, I feel as if I’ve been travelling a long, mysterious – and seemingly endless – road. If I am honest, it has been a journey filled with more than its fair share of wrong turns and blind alleys. Yet around every corner there has been something new to learn.
My travels have now taken me far from home, and the close-knit community of friends and fellow dog lovers within which I began my work. It has been a privilege to meet and help – either directly or indirectly – dogs and owners as far afield as Thailand and the United States, New Zealand and France. Wherever I have travelled I have encountered situations that, sometimes subtly, sometimes dramatically, have deepened my understanding and reaffirmed my belief in the principles of the hidden language that underpins dog behaviour. It is ironic, then, that the most powerful and painful lesson of recent times should have been delivered within the confines of my own home.
There’s an old saying that if you want to give God a laugh, you tell him your plans. It never seemed so apt as it did in May 2001. At the time, I must admit, I had been feeling on top of the world. I had travelled to Poland to promote the publication of my first book, The Dog Listener. It was the first time I had ventured abroad to talk about my work. Meeting dog lovers in cities like Warsaw, Lodz and Cracow was an exciting and uplifting experience, something I’d never imagined would happen to me. I was guest of honour at the country’s main dog show and was feted on television shows and at Champagne receptions and dinners; they treated me like royalty. On the plane back from Warsaw, I had much more to look forward to: a follow-up book, planning a series for television in the UK and finalising the details for my trip to New York, for the launch of the American edition of the book in late July – all heady stuff.
It wasn’t long after I had set my suitcases down that I was brought crashing back to earth. God, it seemed, had got wind of my plans. At the time my partner, Glenn, and I shared our home in Lincolnshire with nine dogs. I’d set off to Poland knowing that the oldest of them, my eleven-year-old Jack Russell, Barmie, had been ill for some time. I wrote about Barmie in my previous book. I had come across him at an animal sanctuary where he had been brought after being discovered tied to a concrete block by a piece of rope. He had been horribly emaciated and was trembling: not just because it was winter at the time but also because he was utterly petrified of humans. I dread to think what sort of abuse he had suffered in his earlier life. The sanctuary was ready to put him to sleep because he was too nervous and aggressive to fit into a family home. I took him in and he became the first great test of my compassionate training method, then in its embryonic stage.
In the seven years I’d had him, Barmie had overcome his fear to lead a happy and fulfilled life. He was a bundle of good-natured energy. Unfortunately, because of the damage he’d suffered in his early years, he’d needed a great deal of medication. As he reached the autumn years of his life, it was clear the cumulative effect of the necessary steroids had weakened him. By that Spring his coat was bare – more skin than fur – his liver was enlarged and he was terribly weak. He was vomiting a lot: everything was breaking down. I’d been telling friends before my trip to Poland that I feared the worst. Sure enough, I got back to learn that he was in a pitiful state. I knew his time was at hand.
An even bigger bombshell lay ahead, however. Even before Barmie, my greatest insight into canine behaviour had been provided by Sasha, a beautiful, black German shepherd I had acquired as a puppy. I had begun my search for a new approach to communicating with dogs in 1990 after meeting the ‘Horse Whisperer’, Monty Roberts. Seeing him bring wild and untamed horses under control without resorting to force or violence of any kind had struck a profound chord within me. I had set out to find a way of training dogs in the same non-violent manner, communicating with the dog in its own language in the same way that Monty connected with horses. Sasha had come into my home soon afterwards and immediately proved an inspiration. More than any other of my dogs, Sasha had shown me the startling similarities between the leadership behaviour within the wolf pack and the domestic ‘pack’ of its distant relative, the dog. Without her guiding example, I would never have gained the knowledge I possess today.
Sasha was eight years old. She’d had problems with her waterworks about six weeks earlier, but a course of antibiotics seemed to cure her. About five days before I had flown to Poland the problem returned, only this time she was passing blood. The vet prescribed a stronger antibiotic and asked us to provide a urine sample so that he could work out the precise nature of her problem. When I got back from Poland, Glenn told me he had difficulty getting this from Sasha; she was having trouble passing water of any kind and her stomach had turned into a hard mass.
I had arrived back on a Thursday evening. On the Friday morning we had arranged to take Barmie to the vet. To be honest, I sensed the end was near. That morning he had been sick in the garden and had been unable to lift himself back to his feet after falling. When I described Sasha’s condition to the vet, he told me to bring her along for an examination as well.
While one vet went off to examine Sasha, we went into one of the rooms with Barmie. It was clear now that he was in some pain. We took the decision to have him put to sleep. There are owners who can’t bear to be present at this moment but, for me, it’s so important that the last thing a dog sees is a friendly face, and that’s what I provided for Barmie. At around noon on Friday, I sat there with him and cuddled him as the injection was administered. He was ready to go: he passed away within seconds.
On the way out, we spoke to the vet who was examining Sasha. The early prognosis seemed to be that she had a blockage, perhaps stones. I was so upset about Barmie I couldn’t really think beyond that. I told them to do whatever was necessary, even if it meant operating. To be honest, I assumed the problem was treatable.
It was 3.30pm when the telephone rang again. The vet said: ‘It’s very bad news.’ An x-ray had shown that there was no blockage. Further examination had shown that Sasha’s bladder muscle had stopped working. He would do what he could to stimulate the bladder but he was not hopeful. I put the telephone down in a state of shock. I couldn’t believe what was happening.
Rather than leaving Sasha in the clinic overnight, I brought her home. On Saturday morning I took her back to the vet and left her for more tests. At midday the phone rang again. Ominously, I was told that another vet had been brought in to provide a second opinion. At 2.30pm the phone rang again and a nurse told me that the vets had held a conference and agreed there was nothing that could be done. The nerve had been badly damaged somehow and, while it was possible to drain the bladder with a catheter, this was not something that could be done for any length of time. They could go ahead with exploratory operations but, in their opinion, this was not going to alter things. I was devastated. I remember telling the nurse: ‘I want a miracle.’ She seemed as upset as me. ‘I wish we could give you one,’ she replied gently.
For a while I considered letting the vets go ahead with their exploratory operations. But then I thought about Sasha, the noblest dog I have known, being reduced to this state. As far as I am concerned, there is no justification for prolonging a dog’s life if it is in pain – regardless of how shocking and upsetting it is to the owner. My motto is simple: it’s either them in pain or us in pain, and it should never be them. So it was that, for the second time in two days, Glenn and I drove to the clinic to have one of our beloved dogs put to sleep. We were both in a terrible state. When Sasha passed away, I cuddled her and simply said: ‘Thank you.’
In the days that followed, I went through a whole range of emotions. Most of the time I felt sick inside. My head was spinning. My whole body hurt. I felt guilt and wondered whether I was being punished for something I had done. I felt anger that these dogs had been taken from me. I had wondered how I would be able to carry on with my work. In one of my few lighter moments, I even found myself agreeing with, of all people, the camp comedian Julian Clary. When he appeared on the BBC show Room 101, Clary – a dog lover – consigned the entire species to ‘Room 101’ because he said they didn’t live long enough. ‘They get under your skin and you love them and then they die,’ he said. How true that is.
For all dog lovers, the loss of the creature they regard as their best friend is a devastating moment. Yet so many owners feel guilty or embarrassed or apologetic. They think they are being stupid. Over the years, I have heard many people say: ‘I want to fall apart. I can’t believe the way I am feeling.’ I always tell them they are entitled to feel that way; their devastation is legitimate and natural. People who say, ‘It was only a dog,’ are the unlucky ones. They don’t even begin to understand the love that a relationship with a dog can bring. Grief over the loss of a dog is as genuine as any other bereavement.
I was certainly not in the mood to apologise for feeling the way I did. Yet, in my heart, I knew I could not let these feelings overwhelm me for long. I soon realised I was not going to be allowed to.

When I got back from the vet and walked back into the house that afternoon, I felt like my world had collapsed. Hand on heart, I couldn’t bear to see, let alone play with or cuddle, my remaining dogs. Dogs are such sensitive creatures, it was inevitable the pack would pick up on this. The remainder of my pack was made up of Sasha’s daughter, Sadie, and six springer spaniels. These were Molly, aged five, and her children, Jake and Jen; Jen’s one-year-old children, Reef and Opal; and another three-year-old springer, Ceri, and her two ten-week-old puppies, Todd and Gabby.
It was Sadie, perhaps predictably, who signalled her reaction first. While the others looked at me as normal when I came in, Sadie hung back. She kept her head hung low, as if she couldn’t bear to catch my eye: I’m sure she sensed what had happened. To be honest, I couldn’t bring myself to look at her either.
Tensions had been building within the house throughout the preceding few days. Sasha had been the most powerful personality within my canine pack. Her absence had thrown all the dogs out of kilter. We had already sensed an atmosphere and, before leaving for the vet that final time, had separated the dogs into four separate groups in different areas of the house.
By the time we arrived home it was late afternoon, almost feeding time. Glenn went through to the kitchen to organise the dogs’ meal. We were both in such a state, however, that neither of us was thinking straight. And it was here that we made the sort of elementary mistake I spend my working life trying to prevent in other homes. We just released the dogs into the kitchen at the same time. Within a split second, all hell had broken loose.
Molly attacked Ceri in the most savage and direct way possible. She tore into her with a vengeance. Within another split second, Jen had joined in the fight on her mother’s side. Even Sadie pitched into the mêlée. To see your dog being attacked by a stranger’s animal is deeply distressing. To see your own dogs trying to tear each other to pieces was one of the most upsetting things I’ve seen in my life. It was a no-holds-barred confrontation. Wounds were opened and there was blood on the floor. The fact that neither Glenn nor I was badly bitten was more down to luck than judgement.
For a few brief seconds it was too much for me, I couldn’t handle it. I can remember sobbing and screaming. At that moment I was confused and angry: how could they do this now? We had lost Sasha and all they could do was fight. It was only after we had pushed all the dogs into different areas of the house that my head began to clear and my senses returned.
It was not long before I recognised what had happened: it was blindingly obvious. For the last ten years I have developed my ideas about the dogs’ belief in the hierarchical ‘pack’ system. I know, perhaps better than most, that a pack must – at all times – have a clearly defined chain of command and, in particular, a leader.
That afternoon, my dogs knew instinctively that there was something terribly wrong within the pack. It was worrying enough that the canine leader, Sasha, was not there. Even worse was the fact that the overall leaders, myself and Glenn, were effectively absent as well. The dogs had spent a few moments in our company before deciding we were about as convincing leaders as a couple of blancmanges. They knew that, for the pack to survive, its leadership had to be re-established immediately. The queen was dead, now it was a case of long live the queen. Molly’s attack on Ceri was the opening salvo in the leadership battle. As the atmosphere calmed a little, I knew I had fallen into a trap. And I knew I had a monumental problem on my hands. It would take me weeks to even begin to reach a solution.
Naturally, the work I had to undergo to restore a sense of order and equilibrium within my pack will feature at intervals in the pages that follow. But I have chosen to begin with this story for another reason. In the days, weeks and months that followed those dreadful forty-eight hours, my anger slowly gave way to other emotions. I felt sorrow, bewilderment and a sense of loss. But, as things returned to something resembling normality, I felt a sense of gratitude too. It was a close friend who sowed the seed when she said to me: ‘Those dogs were put here for a purpose. Sasha and Barmie have served that purpose, and now they have moved on.’ She was absolutely right.
If it had not been for the inspiration Sasha and Barmie provided, I would not have known how to deal with the problems ahead, how to restore harmony to a family that had been left heartbroken by their parting. In time I realised that their legacy was going to live on. These two very different but equally lovable animals were the beacons that drove me on and made me believe it was possible to communicate with dogs.
In death – as in life – the two dogs were still showing me the way ahead. It was not simply that my remaining pack’s instinctive, animal behaviour had confirmed all that Sasha and Barmie had first shown me. More importantly, as I thought about the events of that May, I saw something else: that communicating with our dogs is not a matter of cold, calculating science. Dogs, like humans, have powerful, and sensitive, personalities of their own. Our relationships with them are constantly changing, and we must be able to adapt with them. This was the challenge that faced me personally at that time. And it is a challenge that faces all dog owners, day in, day out. Again, this is something I hope to reflect in the pages to come.
It would, then, be impossible for me to continue this book without remembering – and thanking – Sasha and Barmie. These pages are the continuation of the work they first inspired. They may have gone from my arms but they have not gone from my heart.

PART ONE: DAY-1 (#ulink_902f2b46-e8ad-5058-aa19-b64d03248c12)
A Reintroduction to Dog Listening
When I saw my dogs attacking each other with such force after Sasha’s death, I was witnessing a ritual that dates back thousands of years. It was around 12,000 BC that the modern dog, Canis familiaris, evolved from its ancient ancestor, Canis lupus, the wolf. In the centuries that have followed, the two animals have followed entirely different evolutionary paths. While the wolf has remained, to all intents and purposes, the same animal, the dog has multiplied into myriad breeds. While the wolf has remained in the wild, the dog has been domesticated. And while the wolf’s life remains rooted within the same social environment – the pack – the modern dog has become integrated into human society, often living in isolation from other members of its species. On the surface, then, it may appear that the two have very little in common today. Nothing could be further from the truth.
At the beginning of the twenty-first century, our knowledge of our ancient Homo sapiens cousins deepens almost daily. Rather than fading with time, our understanding of their physiology and psychology seems to loom into focus more and more. And, as this happens, so science is growing increasingly certain that much of modern human behaviour remains rooted in this Stone-Age past. Many of our most basic instincts, from our mating rituals to our attitude to other tribes, date back to the cave-dwelling experience of our ancestors. When you think about it, this makes perfect sense. In the great scheme of things, we have existed on this planet for barely any time at all. If the lifetime of the earth is a single day, man’s time on the planet amounts to barely a few minutes. Our circumstances and surroundings may have changed rapidly, but our brains – and therefore our fundamental natures – have hardly evolved from those times. If this is the case with humans, then it makes sense to assume it applies equally – if not even more strongly – to our closest companions in the animal world, dogs.
When the wolf, Canis lupus, integrated itself into human society, the two species formed a unique partnership. Their relationship was so special that burial chambers have been unearthed containing the skeletons of men and dogs buried alongside each other. Both were hunter-gatherers, both were communal. Both understood instinctively that survival was dependent on the power of the pack. Since then, this new strain of wolf, Canis familiaris, has evolved into a multitude of breeds. Just as the roots of the entire European population can supposedly be traced to seven women, so every dog – from the Pekinese to the Saluki, the Akita to the Alaskan husky – has a bloodline that leads back to the first domesticated dogs. At the same time, the remarkably close, instinctive relationship ancient man had with the dog has deteriorated and all but disappeared.
If we accept that Canis familiaris’ basic programming remains much the same as it was when it first left its wolf-pack environment, it is not difficult to understand the forces that mould a modern dog’s behaviour. The dog may have been taken out of the wolf pack, but the wolf pack can never be taken out of the dog.
To understand the way the modern dog views its world, we must therefore begin by looking at the society from which it first emerged and evolved: the wolf pack. For the wolf, the most powerful instincts are survival and reproduction. Driven by these instincts, the species has evolved a hierarchical system as strict and successful as any in the animal world. Every wolf pack is made up of leaders and subordinates, and at the head of every pack’s pecking order are the ultimate rulers, the Alpha pair.
As the strongest, healthiest, most intelligent and most experienced members of the pack, it is the Alpha pair’s job to ensure the pack’s survival. As a result, they dominate and dictate everything the pack does, and their status is maintained by consistent displays of authority. Underlining this, the Alpha pair are the only members of the pack who breed, thus ensuring only the healthiest genes survive. They are, in effect, twin dictators. They control and direct life within the pack, and the remainder of the pack accepts that rule unfailingly. Each subordinate member is content to know its place and function within this pecking order. Each lives happily in the knowledge that it has a vital role to play in the overall wellbeing of the pack.
The hierarchy of the pack is constantly reinforced through the use of highly ritualised behaviour. The ever-changing nature of pack life, in which Alphas and their subordinates are frequently killed or replaced through age, makes this essential. As far as the wolf’s modern-day descendants are concerned, however, four main rituals hold the key to the pack instinct that lives on within them. They are central to my method.

THE FOUR RITUALS

1 The first key ritual is performed whenever a pack is reunited after being apart. As the pack reassembles, the Alpha pair remove any confusion by reasserting their dominance via clear signals to the rest of the pack. The pair have their own personal space, a comfort zone, within which they operate. No other wolf is allowed to encroach on this space unless invited to do so. By rejecting or accepting the attention of other members who wish to enter their space, the Alpha pair re-establish their primacy in the pack – without ever resorting to cruelty or violence.
2 When a kill has been made by the pack, the Alpha pair get absolute precedence when it comes to eating the carrion; the pack’s survival depends on their remaining in peak physical condition. Only when they are satisfied and signal their feed is over will the rest of the pack be permitted to eat – and then according to the strict pecking order, with the senior subordinates feasting first and the juniors last. Back at the camp, the pups and ‘babysitters’ will be fed by the hunters regurgitating their food. The order is absolute and unbreakable. A wolf will act aggressively towards any animal that attempts to eat before it. Despite the fact that the pack contains its blood relatives, an Alpha will attack any wolf that breaks with protocol and dares to jump the queue.
3 The Alpha pair repay the respect the pack bestows upon them with total responsibility for its welfare. Whenever danger threatens, it is the role of the Alpha pair to protect the pack. This is the third situation in which the natural order of the pack is underlined. The Alpha pair perform their leadership role unblinkingly, and from the front. They will react to danger in one of three ways, selecting one of the ‘three Fs’: flight, freeze or fight. Accordingly, they will run away, ignore the threat or defend themselves. Whichever response the Alpha pair select, the pack will again back up their leaders to the hilt.
4 Inevitably, the Alpha pair are at their most dominant during the hunt. Food, after all, represents the pack’s most fundamental need; its very survival depends on it. As the strongest, most experienced and intelligent members of the pack, the Alpha pair take the lead during the search for new hunting grounds. When prey is spotted, they lead the chase and direct the kill. The Alphas’ status as the pack’s key decision-makers is never more in evidence than during this process. The wolf’s prey can range from mice to buffalo. A pack may spend as long as four hours stalking, cornering and slaying its target. The logistics of this operation require a combination of organisation, determination, tactics and management skill. It is the Alpha’s job to provide this leadership. It is the job of the subordinates to follow and provide support.

A Leap of Imagination
It is little wonder that so many people encounter problems in their relationship with their dogs. The vast majority of dog owners enter that relationship having made a series of utterly false assumptions. They have assumed, for instance, that the dog is in effect a child: an incapable, illogical – if deeply lovable – dependant. As a result of this, they have also assumed that it is going to respond to a series of childlike instructions issued in their language. They are viewing the dog and its world through the prism of the human experience: they are wrong.
The dog does not understand or relate to the human experience in any way. The fact that it responds to the word ‘sit’ or ‘come’ after hearing it a thousand times does not mean that it understands the spoken human language. It has simply come to associate these sounds with certain forms of behaviour, and has learned to act accordingly.
To lead a happy and fulfilling life with dogs, all owners need to make a fundamental change in their approach. They need to look at the world from the dog’s perspective, and understand the society and the rules under which the dog believes it is living. A leap of the imagination is required. They need to understand that the dog is not an immature child operating within the human world: it is an intelligent adult operating within the structures and strictures of its own highly regulated society: the pack. And, most importantly of all, the dog believes it has been given the job of leading that pack. Viewed from this perspective, all its behaviour will make sense. And, viewed from this perspective, all owners have the opportunity to forge a new and hugely fulfilling relationship with their dog.

Amichien Bonding
A dog believes it is a functioning member of a community that operates according to principles directly descended from the wolf pack. Whether its ‘pack’ consists of itself and its owner, or a large family of humans and other animals, the dog believes it is part of a social grouping and a pecking order that must be adhered to at all times. What is more, all dogs believe they are the elected leader of that pack. And they believe this because the humans with whom they live send out signals that re-elect them to the role on a daily basis.
It is my belief that all of the problems we encounter with our dogs are rooted in their belief that they rather than us, their owners, are the leaders of their particular packs. It is the correction of this misconception that lies at the heart of the communications technique I have developed, called Amichien Bonding.
Four separate elements make up the bonding process. Each correlates to the specific times I have identified when the pack’s hierarchy is established and underlined. On each occasion, the dog is confronted with a question that we must answer on its behalf by providing clear, concise signals that it will understand. The four occasions are:

When the pack reunites after a separation, who is the boss now?
When the pack eats food, what order do we eat in?
When the pack is under attack or there is a fear of danger, who is going to protect us?
When the pack goes on the hunt, who is going to lead us?
Each set of signals will be introduced individually with the ‘hunt’, or walk, tackled last of all. It will eventually be necessary for you to use all four elements in conjunction with each other. Your dog must, in effect, be blitzed with signals. It needs to learn that it is not its responsibility to look after you, that it is not its job to care for the house, that all it has to do is sit back and lead a comfortable and enjoyable life. It is a mantra that must be repeated over and over again. Only then will your dog get the message that it is no longer in charge, only then will it be able to exercise the most powerful form of control, self-control.
The process is, at heart, a simple one. The most powerful central principles are established within the first few hours of application. From there, you will go on to add additional signals and controls, first within the home, then within the outside world. By the end of the first thirty days, you should have laid the foundations for a lifetime of companionship and co-operation. What follows is a guide to these formative, first thirty days.
In many ways, the process that is about to begin is akin to a revolution. The objective will be to stage a bloodless coup, to remove the leadership from the dog, but to do so without resorting to force or violence in any way. No coup in history has succeeded without precise and careful planning. And this one will be no exception…

TO BE OR NOT TO BE A DOG OWNER
‘There is no faith which has never yet been broken, except that of a truly faithful dog.’
Konrad Lorenz
It is no surprise to me that dogs have for centuries remained the inspiration for words like these. The love, loyalty and companionship that a dog can bring into our lives are unique. And, in theory, they are pleasures that everyone should have the right to enjoy. I write ‘in theory’ because I do not, in all honesty, believe it is a right that should be granted automatically. It is a sad fact of life that there are people who take dogs into their home for all the wrong reasons. The animal sanctuaries and dogs’ homes of the world are filled with the unhappy results of their rash and unthinking behaviour.
It has become a cliche to say that a dog is not for Christmas, it is for life. But it remains true nevertheless. A dog brings with it a set of responsibilities. And no one should take on the task of introducing a dog into their home without weighing up whether they are ready, willing and able to live up to these responsibilities.
There have probably been thousands of books written on the pros and cons of taking on a dog. I do not intend to contribute another one. Having said that, I do have some opinions on the matter. Anyone who is only getting a dog for their children to play with should not get a dog. Dogs and young people can forge the most beautiful relationships of all – but only if the child is taught to respect the dog: they are not toys. Anyone who is getting a dog solely for the purpose of guarding their homes should not get a dog: this is not fair. Anyone who intends getting a dog and then leaving it at home all day should think again, or should make appropriate arrangements for a friend or professional walker to take it out. The dog is a social animal and, if it is cut off from other beings for eight to twelve hours, this is not good for it.
I also believe that all owners must prepare themselves for the reality of dog ownership. It is the easiest job in the world when the dog is a lovable ball of fluff and affection, but what about when it falls ill or misbehaves, fouls the living-room carpet or growls at visitors? And what about heading out into the outside world? Are you prepared to head out on cold, inhospitable winter mornings to walk the dog? Are you willing to become a fully paid-up member of the plastic-bag brigade and clean up after your dog in public? And what about the time it falls ill and you face the potentially astronomical vet’s bills?
Of course, good owners – rather like good parents – think about a lot of these things instinctively. But I would ask even these genuine dog lovers to do a little soul-searching before committing themselves to using my method. It is one thing to understand the challenges of my approach from the human point of view, but what about thinking about this from the dog’s perspective? Dogs are living, breathing creatures with needs and feelings of their own. No one would welcome a deaf person into their family without accepting in advance that they would need to learn some form of sign language. It is no different with a dog. So, for this reason, I would ask you to consider the following:

Are you prepared to go into this with an open mind?
Are you willing to forget and discard all other ‘training’ methods?
Are you prepared to accept the dog’s welfare is paramount?
Are you prepared to work hard and make the sacrifices necessary to understand a language that may prove elusive and confusing at times?
Are you prepared to give the time the dog needs, especially during the early stages when patience and perseverance are of primary importance?
Has the whole family discussed what is going to be required?
If you already own dogs, are you prepared to go through the necessary retraining they will need as well?
These are all tough questions. I make no apologies for posing them, however. I much prefer that people understand their dogs before they learn to love them. I would rather they begin knowing that sacrifices and hard work will be required. Yet, if my years of experience have taught me anything, it is that the effort is far, far outweighed by the rewards that come from having a happy, well-adjusted and relaxed dog.

WHERE TO GET A DOG
To my mind, there are only two sources from which we should buy dogs: respectable, responsible breeders and registered rescue centres or dogs’ homes. There is, I know, a wide range of alternative sources, from pet shops to so-called licensed kennels. Yet I would not recommend that a dog be taken from any of these, for the following two reasons.
Firstly, it is my firm belief that, if at all possible, an owner should be able to see the dog’s mother and gain knowledge of the history of both parents before taking the dog away. This is something I will explain in more detail in a moment. Secondly, it is only through the first two sources that an owner will have any comeback.
As an illustration of this latter point, I often use the example of a close friend of mine, Wendy Broughton. Wendy is a keen horsewoman. It was Wendy who introduced me to Monty Roberts, the Horse Whisperer, from whom I learnt so much. At a horse fair one day, Wendy saw a batch of dogs for sale for £15 each. There were no clues as to where these dogs had come from. Their owners that day had only one interest: making money. Wendy is a soft touch and took pity on one dog in particular. In the two years since then, she has spent more than £2500 on vet’s bills. It turned out the dog was riddled with worms and suffered from a variety of stomach problems.
The crucial point here is that Wendy had no comeback on the people who sold her that dog; she didn’t even get a contact name. This type of trade is sadly on the increase. The growth of ‘puppy farms’ is something I abhor. Often, owners will be allowed no more than seventy-two hours in which to return their dogs.
In contrast, no reputable breeder or rescue centre would sell a dog without guaranteeing that you could return the animal to them if there were a medical problem or if you were, for whatever reason, unhappy with it. Indeed, a good breeder would insist on being on hand to provide advice throughout the dog’s days. The dog cannot lose under this arrangement: if it fits into a happy home, it will enjoy a long and hopefully rewarding life there. If not, it will return to a place where its best interests are safeguarded. Owners who leave themselves with no comeback, are left with no obvious place to return an unwanted dog. Many will, of course, ensure they are given good homes. Sadly, many more will not.

Buying a Puppy
Falling in love with a puppy is the easiest thing in the world. We’ve all experienced the ‘aaah’ factor, that moment when we’ve stared for the first time into the saucer-sized eyes of a sweet, young dog and gone hopelessly gooey. It’s for this reason that I recommend you begin your search for a puppy by steering clear of these charmers to begin with. You know that you are going to fall head over heels in love with the puppy – it’s a given. Far better for you to deal with the realities before beginning the romance, and the best way to do this is by first meeting the family.
Producing a litter of puppies involves collaboration between the human breeder and their dogs. The dogs deliver this new life into the world, but it is the human who must shoulder the ultimate responsibility. I passionately believe that the best way to assess whether a dog is coming from a good home is by meeting both sets of ‘parents’, that is both the human and canine carers.
Given that many breeders go to a stud to begin their litters, it is more than likely that only the mother will be available. The condition of the owner and its home, its personality, temperament and general demeanour will reveal much. Of course, part of the equation is missing if the father is not there. Seeing both will provide the clearest idea possible of the sort of dog their offspring is going to become, nevertheless, a visit to the mother will always be worthwhile.
Just as importantly, the attitude and behaviour of the owner is highly revealing too. If, for instance, the mother is not with its puppies, there are immediate reasons for concern. The growth of puppy farms is one of the more unpleasant facts of life these days. The absence of the mother may mean that the seller is a third party, whose motives are purely to do with money rather than the welfare of the dogs in their protection.
Another good indicator of the quality of the home is the extent to which the seller interrogates all potential new owners. A potential buyer should expect to be grilled by a good breeder: I know, as I always insist on finding out as much as I can about anyone who wants to take one of my puppies into their home. The procedure should be like that of an adoption society being very careful about where it places the children entrusted to its care. Good breeders should be just as diligent in finding a home for the innocent young lives for which they are responsible.
A reputable breeder should want to know everything about the home into which they are considering releasing the puppy. They should want to know what the domestic situation is at home: are there people around all day to look after the dog? Are there many small children in the home? Has the prospective owner owned this type of dog, or indeed any dog, before? Another important question is whether the prospective owner has thought about whether a particular breed is right for their home. Also, are they willing to wait for a puppy? Good breeders do not churn out dogs as if from a production line. If the breeder asks these questions, it should be seen as a positive sign. If they do not, they are probably more interested in making a sale and should therefore be treated with caution.
By the same token, a good breeder should be open to questions from a potential owner. They should be willing to reveal anything and everything about the dog’s history and background, from the details of its parentage and its age, to its favourite food and toys. Again, owners should be wary of anyone who is vague or unhappy about answering these questions. I’ve never been afraid to talk to potential owners in this kind of detail. Indeed, I’ve made very good friends of people who have bought puppies from me.
Potential owners should be particularly careful about checking for hereditary problems within some breeds. Cavalier King Charles spaniels can be prone to heart problems, for instance; Dalmatians can suffer from deafness; long-backed breeds, like basset hounds and dachshunds, have a tendency to suffer from back pain and slipped discs. With German shepherds and Labradors, potential buyers should look out for hip dysplasia, a genetic problem in which the ball-and-socket joint of the hip can be deformed or even nonexistent. It is a condition that is extremely painful and ultimately crippling for dogs that are afflicted and something that good breeders monitor closely. Dogs are x-rayed at the age of one and given a ‘hip score’, which ranges from zero for perfect hips, to eighteen and higher, a mark that indicates the dog should not be used for breeding.
All good breeders work hard to eliminate these problems. But, so as to make informed and appropriate choices, potential owners are well advised to thoroughly research the breeds they are interested in. This is easily done through the Kennel Club or its equivalent organisation, and then through the various breed experts. The importance of this cannot be overstressed. No one goes out to make a major purchase like a new car or a house without checking out the subject thoroughly. When they choose a dog, owners are introducing into the family a new member that will hopefully remain with them for twelve to fourteen years; it is not something to be taken lightly.

Rescue Dogs
Few things can compare with the pleasure that comes from providing a home for a rescue dog – that is, a dog that has been placed in a sanctuary or dogs’ home due to abuse, abandonment or bad behaviour. As someone who has taken in a number of rescue dogs over the years, I can say with my hand on my heart that the rewards both the dogs and I have had have been phenomenal. The joy I have had in seeing tragic dogs given a new hope in life has been immense. And I have to admit it has made me feel good to have provided these dogs with a happy and stable home life they had previously been denied.
Having said that, there is no escaping the fact that rescue dogs can present considerable problems, for self-evident reasons. I often say that there is no such thing as a problem dog, but there are dogs with problems. And rescue dogs, by their very nature, come with more problems than most.
Obviously in such cases it is simply not possible to make the checks that are possible with a new puppy. Any decent sanctuary or rescue organisation should be able to provide you with some details about the dog’s immediate past. Again, vagueness or reluctance to give out details should be regarded with extreme caution, however, the vast majority of sanctuaries and rescue homes are run by people who have an extraordinary dedication to dogs and their welfare. Whatever they know about the dog, they will be willing to tell you: good or bad. It is not in their interest, or that of the dog, to deceive you. The reason many dogs are in a sanctuary is due to violence. I believe, however, that, provided you understand the way a dog’s mind works, it is a calculated risk. For many people, I hope it will remain a risk worth taking.

A Question of Breeding
When I was given my first dog, a Border collie called Shane, there were relatively few breeds readily available to buy. How things have changed. Today, new owners face a bewildering choice of breeds, from exotic Oriental dogs like the Akita and the shih-tzu, to breeds that, until recently, were considered rare, like the Newfoundland or husky.
I am often asked whether particular breeds are more suitable for some people than others. My answer, in general, is that anyone can own any breed provided the dog fully understands its status within the domestic pack. A Yorkshire terrier that believes it is boss may not deliver as bad a bite as a Rottweiler or German shepherd under the same delusion; nonetheless, a bite is a bite. If a dog’s attitude is right, this problem will not arise so the breed of dog is immaterial, yet there are some general guidelines you should bear in mind.
If, for instance, you have a quiet, family lifestyle and are looking for a more relaxed companion rather than an active dog, you might be advised to take a breed that does not need as much exercise, something like a Tibetan spaniel. This does not necessarily mean a smaller dog: Great Danes and Saint Bernards love to lie around. On the other hand, people, like me, who find it hard to justify going out for a walk without a dog for company, are spoilt for choice. German shepherds, Labradors, springer spaniels are all suitable companions.
You have to bear in mind the specifics of your situation. For example, I would not advise someone who is restricted in what they are able to do physically to take on dogs with heavy coats, breeds like the Afghan hound or rough collies. The demands these breeds make in terms of grooming are considerable. It is far better for people in this situation to go for a Labrador, a retriever or a Border collie, dogs that are less ‘high maintenance’ in this respect.
You should also bear in mind the practicalities of training a dog. For instance, with the introduction of basic controls such as the ‘sit’ and ‘heel’, you will be required to do a lot of crouching and bending down to deal with your dog. Older, less mobile, people might want to bear in mind whether they are going to be capable of doing this with a small dog in particular. It is a lot easier to reach the eye level of a German shepherd than that of a lhasa apso.
It is worth stating at this point that it is wrong to associate the size of the dog with the size of the task ahead of its new owner. Big dogs do not necessarily mean a bigger task in terms of training and maintaining them. Indeed, in my experience, some of the kindest, gentlest and easiest-trained dogs have been from the larger breeds. And some of the most uncooperative have been from the smaller ones.
Of course, the best way to understand the type of dog you are acquiring is to study the breed. Each breed was originally evolved, through human intervention, to perform certain functions. Border collies and German shepherds were bred as sheepdogs, and are carers and herders. Beagles were bred to hunt. The Saint Bernard and the Newfoundland were bred as rescue dogs – it is why, in normal circumstances, they are such peaceful, placid dogs. It is only when an emergency arises that they leap into action. By the same token, lhasa apsos and Pekinese were bred as lapdogs. Breeds like this are, literally, custom-made for people who are looking for warmth, affection and companionship above all else. There are dogs to suit everyone.
The one thing I would caution against is getting a dog purely because it is in vogue at a particular time. Certain breeds come into fashion every now and again. I can recall times here in Britain when the Afghan hound and the Old English sheepdog became incredibly ‘trendy’ dogs. The success of the film 101 Dalmatians suddenly made that breed popular. A short time later, when these breeds are no longer de rigueur, the sanctuaries and rescue centres are full of unwanted dogs. In the meantime, unscrupulous breeders will have gone into overtime producing as many puppies as possible, inflicting God-knows-what damage on the breed itself. If someone is going to choose an accessory from a fashion magazine, let it be a handbag, a pair of shoes or a dress – anything but a dog.

EXPANDING PACKS: PREPARING FOR A NEW DOG
The more I have observed and worked with humans and dogs, the more I have come to recognise our shared sense of family values. It is, of course, no accident that dogs possess a pack instinct as deep-rooted as our own. It is one of the reasons why our ancient ancestors forged an alliance with the dog, the first and most important animal to be domesticated by man. I mention it at this point because you must consider this when you expand your pack by introducing new dogs to a home that already has dogs. My method, as I have explained, allows you to position yourself as the leader of that pack. Yet, in situations where you already own two or more dogs, the dogs, too, will have a hierarchy. The natural result when a new dog is introduced into the pack is a situation where the dogs believe a leadership election is about to happen. I will deal in detail with this later on, but for now bear in mind that the introduction of a new dog is something that has to be planned with particular care.
There are many other factors to consider. Mixing breeds, for instance, has to be thought about. A Japanese Akita and a German shepherd will get along together eventually, but there may be a great deal of friction before they settle into a routine together. Introducing a puppy less than nine months old to an existing pack is, in relative terms, a straightforward process. But here, too, you must bear in mind that placing a nine-month-old puppy in a home is the equivalent, in dog years, of introducing a hyperactive twelve-year-old to a human household. People always talk of one dog year being the equivalent of seven human years: in the case of the dog’s first year, however, this is more like sixteen years. Look at it this way: by nine months old, a bitch is physically capable of producing and raising children. Emotionally, however, she is nowhere near ready. You should always bear in mind the effect a newcomer like this might have on the chemistry of your existing pack.
If you already have dogs, I therefore suggest you do two things before expanding the pack. Firstly, I recommend you introduce my method to the existing dogs first. This makes obvious sense on every level: the influence the existing dogs have on their new companion will be immense. If they have learned to live a fulfilling life by accepting you as their leader, the chances of the potentially disruptive newcomer accepting the status quo are hugely increased.
Secondly, I also advise you to introduce the new dog to its prospective pack as soon as possible. The ideal option is to take the existing dogs to the breeder or rescue centre where the new dog is. This has several obvious advantages. In territorial terms, it is neutral ground. The new arrival will also be amongst people who know and can control it in the event of problems. Most importantly of all, if after a few meetings there is clearly a high degree of friction between the old and new dogs, you will have the chance to think again. Once more, you will be able to get a strong idea of whether a refuge is a reputable one or not from their handling of this whole process. Alarm bells should begin ringing if they are reluctant to allow you to bring your dogs to meet the potential family member. The danger signals become overwhelming if the refuge even hints at the sale being cut and dried.

PREPARING THE HOME
A dog does not really care whether its owner lives in a tent or a palace. The criteria it regards as important are more to do with the comfort, safety and quality of life it enjoys rather than the particulars of its surroundings. If only we humans were less materialistic sometimes: as long as a dog is cared for in the right way, it will be happy.
In preparing to put my method into practice, I would advise you to make a few specific provisions around the home. Some of them are obvious, others less so. Each is important if life with a new dog is to get off on the right footing.

Sleeping Quarters
Decide where the dog is going to sleep. It is vital that the dog or puppy has its own space, its own refuge. It must be able to lie down on its side with about three to four inches to spare either side. It should have about the same space when it stretches out lengthwise. I personally like to use dog cages: my dogs seem to enjoy the idea that they have their own secure, enclosed space. I always leave the gate open so they can move freely. They are also perfect for travelling in the car.
A dog does not need to have an expensive basket or kennel of its own; a supermarket cardboard box turned on its side provides a safe, secure space. I always find putting an old jumper in it helps. It provides warmth and cover but has the added advantage over a clean blanket that it also smells of the family.

No-Go Areas
Decide on the no-go areas in the home. There will be areas where you will not want the dog to stray, typically bathrooms and toilets, maybe a study or dining room. You should establish these areas in your mind in advance. Every member of the family should also be aware of the rules: instilling them into the dog will prove that much easier later on.

Gates: With the above in mind, I recommend placing a children’s gate between the kitchen and the hallway. It ensures that the dog does not follow you everywhere, something that is a particular trait with puppies. At the same time, you will be able to keep an eye on the dog’s movements. The only thing to watch out for is that the gaps between the bars are not wide enough for the dog to get its head stuck.
Garden: The garden area will be of vital importance to both you and your dog, not just during the first thirty days but also throughout your lives together. You should ensure that the area is secure and that your dog cannot escape. As with the internal gates, you should also make sure there is no danger of the dog’s head being trapped in fencing. In assessing this, I do warn owners that I have had to extricate puppies from the most unlikely places: don’t underestimate their ability to stick their heads in the tightest spaces!

Basic Needs
It may be stating the blindingly obvious here, but there are still many owners who seem to overlook the most basic practical preparations for the arrival of a new dog. The list that follows is customised to allow you to apply my method immediately.

Feeding Bowls: Two bowls are essential. One is for water, which should be filled with fresh water twenty-four hours a day and should be changed at least two to three times a day. The other is for food. As you will see later, an extra supply of bowls – up to four per dog – may come in useful in applying part of my method.
Collar and Lead: It will be several days before the dog is ready to go on a walk. Before then, however, there will be times when it will be used for heel work inside the house.
Toys: Again, there is no need to go to any extraordinary expense here. For puppies in particular, I find there is nothing better than an old tea towel or blanket, soaked in water, then tied in a knot. It is perfect for young dogs with immature, malleable teeth.
Grooming Brushes: Grooming is an important element of looking after a dog. As well as keeping the dog in condition, it allows you to keep a regular monitor on your animal’s weight, skin condition and general welfare. It is also another means of forging a close personal bond with a dog. Long-haired dogs like cocker spaniels and Old English sheepdogs cannot be left for more than six days without being brushed. The knotted coat that results after this time can be painful and extremely unhygienic. Owners will need a ‘slicker’ brush for these dogs. For smooth-coated dogs, a soft brush will suffice. I also find it useful to use a pair of rubber gloves. They can be perfect for scrubbing particularly tricky areas clean.
First-Aid Kit: In case of emergencies, it is advisable to have a collection of medicines, such things as wound dressings, ointments and ear drops.
Food Rewards: An essential element of the work that lies ahead involves the awarding of tidbits of food. Before your dog arrives, ensure there is a good supply of special treats, things such as reward sticks, meat strips or (my personal favourite) pieces of cheese.
Good, Local Vet: I suggest to all potential dog owners that they spend a little time checking out the vets in their area. It is a good idea to get the dog registered in advance.

MENTAL PREPARATION
By far the most important preparation is that which must go on in your head. Unless you have grasped the central principles of my method, you should not proceed with it. You must be ready to see every situation in the right context: in terms of the dog and its view of its place in the domestic ‘pack’. In addition, you must also make practical preparations for the days ahead.

Never Set Yourself Up for Failure
One important piece of advice I like to get across to owners from the start is that they should never set themselves up for failure. By this I mean that, in the days ahead, there will be some setbacks that you cannot predict – and they are probably going to be related to the particular traits of your dog’s personality. But, at the same time, there are going to be some mistakes that you can avoid through proper, careful planning, for instance, you should always have a ready supply of food reward with you. Try to be prepared for every eventuality that is thrown at you.

Allow More Time
Absolutely central to everything I do is a sense of calm. For this reason, you must be prepared to allow more time for everything; if you are impatient, it won’t happen. You must be ready to put your dog’s needs high on your agenda for a month. You must be ready to put yourself out for your dog. And, throughout this time, you must remember that you are taking into your home a creature whose language and needs are different from yours. Most crucial of all, you must accept that the dog is not going to learn your language – it is up to you to learn the dog’s language. And, for this reason, every grown-up member of the family must take some time to familiarise themselves with the principles of bonding before the process begins.

Think Canine
A good owner should always anticipate their dog’s doubts and questions. You should try to think ahead and recognise the things that a dog is going to find confusing or frightening. For instance, a dog is not being stupid if it recoils when a vacuum cleaner or a dishwasher or washing machine is switched on. I ask people to imagine how they would feel if they didn’t comprehend what they were encountering. They’d want to know whether this was something that was going to cause them harm.

Be Ready, Willing and Mentally Able
Learning my method is akin to learning a new language. Anyone who has had to master this skill will know what a difficult and time-consuming business it can be. They will also know that it requires absolute concentration and commitment, and a mind that is receptive and open to new ideas. It is no different with my method: you must not only be willing and able to learn, you must be mentally ready too. This is why I do not recommend you begin at times of emotional stress. Far better to postpone the introduction of Amichien Bonding until your mind is clear and focused.

I myself was reminded of the importance of mental preparation in the aftermath of the loss of Sasha and Barmie. Their deaths – and the explosive reaction it sparked within my own pack – left me reeling for days. Throughout that time, I knew that I would have to reintroduce all the elements of my method, that I would have to re-establish myself as the unchallenged leader of the pack. The reality was that I was nowhere near ready to do so at that time. My mind was filled with memories of dogs that I had loved and lost over the years. I was in a dream, or nightmare, for most of the next few days. I was angry, hurt and lost.
I was experienced enough by then to know that there was no point in my trying to reapply my method while I was in that state of mind. For the first few days after the fight took place, I simply kept the different factions within my pack separate at all times. I knew how unconvincing I was as a leader. I was being consumed by my human side, there was no place for thinking in the canine terms I needed: it simply would have failed. And I was not going to set myself up for a failure. No one reading this book should take the next step on this journey without being sure they too are willing, able and mentally ready to do so.

PART TWO THE FIRST 48 HOURS (#ulink_18818546-fbf6-5974-b511-98bb92011684)
New Horizons: Settling a New Dog in Its Environment
The road ahead is a long, sometimes difficult, but hopefully richly rewarding one. And for some owners, the first potential wrong turn looms within the first moments of bringing a dog home. Dogs that are already acclimatised and settled into a home will be able to begin the first phase of my method – reuniting after separation – immediately. For dogs that are new arrivals, whether they be puppies, adults or rescue dogs, there is a preliminary hurdle to be overcome. It is vital if the new relationship is to get off to the correct start.
Most of us can vividly recall moments like our first day at school, or our arrival at our first workplace. It is an extremely stressful, daunting and, at times, downright terrifying experience. People are operating according to a set of rules we don’t yet understand. The place is filled with unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells. Imagine someone having to fit into a new environment like this when nobody understands what they are saying. This is the situation a dog faces when it takes its first tentative steps into a new home.
Arriving in a new environment is a traumatic experience for a dog. The most important thing you can do during the first forty-eight hours or so is to make this as trauma-free as possible. And it is imperative that the first minutes of the day are spent allowing the dog to settle into its new environment.
The first thing I recommend you do with a new dog or puppy is that, on arrival at the new home, you immediately take it outside to do its toiletting. When the dog relieves itself as you have asked it to, you should reward it with a tidbit. This should be accompanied with warm words of encouragement, such as ‘Good dog’, or ‘Clean dog’, and perhaps a stroke of the head or nape of the neck area. The key point here is that the first piece of positive association has been achieved within the first few moments in the home. A good start has been made.
The next stage is to allow the dog to get to know its new environment. You should leave it alone and let it explore the areas it is free to roam in. Throughout this time, you should be giving out gently affectionate signs, by which I mean smiles and words of reassurance and kindness. At the same time, you should not be gushing or overaffectionate with the dog. This is particularly important in the case of rescue dogs. These are dogs that have had appalling experiences in the outside world. For understandable reasons, their trust may be much harder to win. The key thing here is to remain kind and calm but to keep a respectful distance too. It may well be that the dog is too nervous to engage in any way during the first few hours, or even days. Do not rush the dog: give it space and time.

Settling a dog down into a new environment may sound straightforward. It is not, I can assure you. As an illustration of the hard work that is sometimes required here, I often draw on the example of Murphy. All dogs need to check out their new home, to sniff out the landscape, if you like. Murphy was more qualified than most for this job. He was a police ‘sniffer’ dog. At work, his role was to locate drugs, explosives and contraband.
I met him while visiting his handler, Teresa, a PC with the West Midlands Police. She had expressed an interest in learning more about my method and I had visited her at her home. Murphy, I discovered, lived in a kennel at the rear of the house. When I wondered why he didn’t live in the house she simply laughed: ‘He’d destroy the place,’ she said. By this, she meant that Murphy was simply too inquisitive. His training had encouraged him to stick his nose in anywhere and into anything suspicious. On the rare occasions he had been allowed in people’s homes, this had led to disaster. He would knock things over and generally leave a trail of destruction behind him. In short, he had no house manners.
I offered to illustrate my work by introducing Murphy to the house. He immediately went berserk, leaping around everywhere. I immediately asked for his lead. While Teresa and I sat down and talked, we studiously ignored Murphy’s high-octane behaviour. Throughout, he remained attached to his lead, which Teresa clung to from her chair. After ten minutes or so, he settled down. At this point, Teresa released him from his lead. The reprieve was short-lived: the moment he began leaping around again, I got Teresa to put him back on his lead. She didn’t scold him or shout at him. She simply remained aloof and acted quickly. This process was repeated four times in all.
The next time Murphy was let off the lead, he simply sniffed around our legs. It was as if he was making his final check of the environment. Soon after that, he lay nicely down at Teresa’s side. It was the final symbolic gesture, the signal that he was now ready to begin living, and learning, there.

It is no surprise that many people have problems integrating new dogs into a home that already has one or more dogs living there. My method will ensure that the human members are elevated to the senior positions within the extended pack, but it is important that you acknowledge the canine pecking order below this. This hierarchy is the most natural thing in the world, and nothing is going to change that.
In many, many cases dogs settle into a natural order with very little trouble indeed. But, make no mistake about it, the process can be hugely competitive and can result in aggressive and potentially violent behaviour. For this reason, I must emphasise how essential it is that the initial, introductory meeting between dogs happens on neutral territory. In an ideal world, I would recommend more than one meeting.
If, for whatever reason, your existing pack is only going to meet the new dog on the day of its arrival, this introduction must be your first task of the day. You must choose a neutral ground, and here you must be careful to avoid places where the existing pack has strong associations. In the past, I have taken new additions to my pack to parks or open spaces, areas where they and my existing dogs have been free to weigh each other up and begin the process of integration in a less charged atmosphere. It requires the assistance of someone else to lead either the existing pack or the newcomer to the spot. Even if this only lasts for half an hour before the new dog arrives home, it can be of huge long-term benefit.
If there is more than one dog in the existing pack, I suggest you introduce these dogs to the newcomer one at a time. Each time this happens, it is vital the two dogs meet on equal status. As the newcomer is going to be on a lead, the existing pack member should also be on a lead. If one dog is being rewarded with toys or treats, then so should the other. The vital thing here is that the two dogs form a new, extended pack. By exuding strong leadership, you should be implanting the idea that the job of Alpha within this pack is already taken. The newcomer will obviously be less well versed in your communication methods than the established dog. Yet the message should begin to seep through just the same: by all means sort out a pecking order amongst yourselves, but be certain that the job of leader is not up for grabs – nor will it ever be.
As you allow the dogs to get to know each other, the key message here is ‘don’t panic’. If the dogs grumble or growl at each other, ignore it until they relax. Ultimately, dogs enjoy each other’s company. Given time and space, a friendship can emerge from the least likely pairing. Throughout this period, it is again important to show the qualities of leadership at all times. So everything should remain calm, and you should keep your head.
It is worth stating that you should adopt a sensible approach towards aggression between dogs here. I have seen people overreact completely to the sight of two dogs squaring up to each other and growling. In human terms, this is no more serious than one person telling another to get out of their sight. It is not the most pleasant situation, but neither is it an excuse for the sort of histrionics I have witnessed in my time. If your dogs do threaten each other, you should act decisively and immediately to remove the instigator. For this reason, I would recommend that the new dog wears a collar while it is being introduced to the pack: it is better to be safe than sorry.
Once a rapport is established, let the dogs move closer together. Eventually, they should come up close enough so that they can play together. This is the most natural thing in the world. Again, remain relaxed and let it happen naturally. The more time the new extended pack spends together in this way, the better. Eventually, however, they will have to head home. The dogs should be transported home together. If the established dog is being reluctant getting into a vehicle, you should put the new dog in first. If the situation becomes tense or confrontational during the journey, the new dog should be moved to another seat. Once at home, the dogs must remain on equal status, each of them on a lead. They should be released in the garden at the same time and, while you keep an eagle eye on them, they should then be left to get to know each other.
There is every chance, of course, that the dogs will not get on immediately. You will have to exercise common sense and flexibility here. I strongly recommend that you should make plans for segregating your dogs at home in the early days. Dogs are quick to assimilate themselves into environments: in most instances, I believe dogs can settle into a new home within forty-eight hours. Yet, given the potentially explosive situation that can arise when a dog is added to an established pack, I ask people to be overcautious. I have certainly found that providing both the newcomer and existing dogs with their own ‘bolt holes’ can prove an invaluable asset in the testing early days.
It is vital that your new dog is allowed to stake out its environment, so, if you are lucky enough to have the space, I recommend you build a separate area – a compound, if you will – in which the new dog can begin its life within the home. It should be given all the time it needs to assimilate to this space. At the same time, use the separate ‘neutral’ area for your existing dogs to continue to get to know the stranger now in their midst – always under close supervision by you. The length of time the extended pack spends together should be increased slowly as the new member is accepted.

Конец ознакомительного фрагмента.
Текст предоставлен ООО «ЛитРес».
Прочитайте эту книгу целиком, купив полную легальную версию (https://www.litres.ru/jan-fennell/the-practical-dog-listener-the-30-day-path-to-a-lifelong-under/) на ЛитРес.
Безопасно оплатить книгу можно банковской картой Visa, MasterCard, Maestro, со счета мобильного телефона, с платежного терминала, в салоне МТС или Связной, через PayPal, WebMoney, Яндекс.Деньги, QIWI Кошелек, бонусными картами или другим удобным Вам способом.